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Musekese Camp: Why It Is a Very Rare and Special Kind of Safari

  • Writer: Tyrone McKeith
    Tyrone McKeith
  • 5 days ago
  • 6 min read
Lions looking at the signpost in the camp at Musekese
The welcoming committee

There are many wonderful safari camps across Africa. Some offer remarkable luxury, some incredible wildlife, and others access to landscapes that have been known and travelled for decades.


But every now and then, a place comes along that is something quite different.


Musekese Camp is one of those places.


Not because it is the most luxurious, or the most photographed, or the most famous. In fact, quite the opposite. What makes Musekese special is something harder to describe in a brochure: it is a place that has been built from the ground up, piece by piece, over time, by people who first arrived here when nothing existed prior.


To understand why Musekese is such a rare safari experience today, you have to go back to the beginning.


Phil Jeffery and Tyrone McKeith pioneering early adventures at Musekese Camp, Eden Lagoon
Phil and Tyrone on one of the first exploratory visits to the Eden Lagoon in 2011

When There Were No Roads


Fourteen years ago, the area around Musekese looked very different.


There were no roads leading to the river (the nearest road was over 50km away!), no camps nearby, and very little knowledge about what the wildlife populations actually looked like in this corner of the vast Kafue National Park.


In fact, the first “road” survey here was done on foot.


One day in late 2011 involved what we later described as “a long, long walk” — heading out with a GPS, notebooks, and a vague sense of direction to see if a route to the river might even be possible. The blog about that day still exists on our site, and reading it now feels like looking at the first page of a much longer story.


At the time, there was no guarantee the idea would work.


But the landscape had something about it. A quiet wildness. A sense that if given enough time and care, it could become something extraordinary.


An exploratory walk with Phil Jeffery, surveying potential road routes for access to Musekese Camp
One of many km's walked to survey the potential future Musekese access road

Starting With Very Little


Musekese didn’t begin with big investors, development plans, or grand lodge designs.


It began with a mobile safari kit, an ageing Land Rover, and a great deal of stubborn determination.


Tyrone McKeith warming water over an open fire in the Kafue National Park whilst developing their first camp, Musekese
A basic existence at the very beginning

Phil and Ty started with their own savings, along with a bit of help from parents who believed in the idea enough to support the dream.


For several years they shared a single 3m x 3m dome tent, living out of canvas while slowly trying to understand the landscape around them.


A huge rain storm inundates the tent for Phil and Tyrone
An unexpected early storm caught our little tent out somewhat

There were no neighbouring camps to learn from, no established wildlife viewing circuits, and very few visitors.


Everything had to be discovered from scratch.


Where the animals moved. Where roads might work. Where a camp could sit without disturbing the rhythm of the bush.


The First Musekese Camp Safari


The first version of Musekese Camp stood on a different site entirely.


The view from the main area at 'old' Musekese - overlooking the Kafue River beyond
The old main area at the original Musekese Camp

For three years, a small and very simple camp operated there while the surrounding area slowly began revealing itself. The focus of the experience was on walking with Phil and Tyrone.


Tea and Coffee around the camp fire at 'old' Musekese Camp with the Pope Family
Hosting the Pope Family (of Robin Pope Safaris)

Wildlife sightings were sporadic, the road network was minimal, and every outing was genuine exploration.


A morning walking safari with Tyrone McKeith from 'old' Musekese Camp
A morning walk with Tyrone along 'the ridge' from 'Old' Musekese

Eventually, the camp moved to its present location overlooking Eden Lagoon — a place that felt immediately right.


Phil Jeffery leading a walking safari in the Kafue National Park
Phil on a walk with Rod Tether (Guide) and guests at what was to become the new Musekese Camp

It offered water, open space, and a sense that wildlife might one day thrive here.


But that future would still take years to unfold.


Conservation Came First


From the beginning it became clear that tourism alone would not protect this landscape.


An image off the back of a digital camera of a lion cub with only three legs, one lost in a poachers snare
One of the toughest sightings we had early on, a lion cub with a leg lost to a snare

Poaching pressures existed, roads needed maintenance, and wildlife numbers were fragile.


In 2018, this effort formally became Musekese Conservation, an organisation dedicated to protecting the wider ecosystem surrounding the camp.


In those early days, even the first wildlife police officers were trained using funds paid out of our own pockets. The base camp too, with help from some guests of Musekese Camp.


Equipment was basic. Support was limited. But the commitment was there.


Over time the conservation programme has grown into something far bigger than the camp itself — helping safeguard thousands of hectares of wilderness within the greater ecosystem of Kafue National Park.


Wildlife Habituation


One of the lesser-thought-about realities of developing a brand new safari area is that wildlife does not automatically accept vehicles - they'd never seen one before!


Hours and hours spent sitting quietly near a herd of kudu. Approaching elephants carefully, day after day, until they become accustomed to your presence. Driving past the same groups repeatedly until the vehicle becomes simply another part of the landscape.


A camera trap or trail camera image of zebra, hartebeest and impala at the Eden Lagoon at Musekese Camp in 2015
With skittish game we used trail cameras to show us what actually existed - as you can see, plenty!

This process took years.


Leopard tracks were present long before the animals themselves were ever seen. It took patience and persistence before the first regular sightings began to happen.


Today guests enjoy remarkable wildlife encounters around Musekese — but every one of those sightings sits on top of thousands of quiet hours spent building trust between people and wildlife.


A safari guide photographing a very relaxed leopard with his phone from Musekese Camp
A simple image but speaks volumes that today a game drive from Musekese can capture, with a phone even, one of the several very relaxed and day-moving leopard of the area

Looking After the Landscape


Long before large-scale park management returned to the area, much of the responsibility for looking after the immediate landscape fell to us.


A young Tyrone McKeith with an early supported anti-poaching patrol team in the Musekese area, having retrieved dozens of wire snares from poachers
Tyrone with one of the early donated bicycles and just some of the snares retrieved from the area

Fire management became critical. Uncontrolled fires could sweep through vast areas each year.

So firebreaks were cut. Rotational burning blocks were established.


A staff member tends to a fire in the Kafue National Park
Clever (then Waiter, and now Widlife Police Officer!) creating fire breaks

Roads also needed constant attention. With no grader available, eventually a tractor was purchased to help maintain access tracks — and occasionally assist with conservation patrols in remote areas.


Tyrone McKeith drives a tractor to do road works in the Musekese area
Many hours of tractor work to manage the landscape effectively for both fire protection (fire breaks) but also guest enjoyment (smooth roads)

It was never glamorous work, but it mattered.


Slowly, the landscape began to stabilise.


Fourteen Years Later… We Are Still Discovering


Today Musekese Camp continues to welcome travellers from around the world.


Wildlife populations have rebounded. Leopards are seen regularly. Wild dog packs move through the area. Large herds of antelope graze the lagoons.


Lions frolic in front of the main area at Musekese Camp as guests watch on at a safe distance
A not-uncommon sighting of lions from the main area at Musekese Camp

And yet, even now, the sense of discovery has never really left.


The safari area around Musekese is still only about fourteen years old in tourism terms. There are plains we first saw only from the air, and tracks that lead to places we had never explored before.


Even today, sometimes the bush still surprises us. Oh, and we still have the place to oursevles - an area of operation around the size of the Masai Mara.


The Eden Lagoon at Musekese from above
The Eden Lagoon at Musekese Camp, from above (dry season)

Why A Safari Here Feels Different


Many safaris today are beautifully curated experiences.


Wonderful camps, perfectly polished service, and wildlife areas that have been refined over decades.


Musekese offers something slightly different.


Here, the story of the place is still unfolding.


The guides who take you out each day are not just showing you wildlife; they are part of a landscape they have helped shape and protect.


Safari Guide JohnD on a morning walking safari with guests from Musekese in the Kafue National Park
The inimitable JohnD - Guide yes, but mechanic, teacher, mentor, artist and much more...

When you see a leopard here, it is not just another sighting on a long list. It is a reminder that just over a decade ago, the leopard was only a set of tracks in the sand.


And that the presence of visitors — travellers who care enough to come and experience wild places properly — has helped make the recovery of this ecosystem possible.


Happy smiling faces from guests and professional safari guide Gilbert on a game drive from Musekese Camp
Guide Gilbert with guests at Musekese Camp - the smiles tell it all!

In a very real sense, you are part of the story here.


Musekese is not simply a safari camp.


It is a journey that began with a long walk through the bush, and continues to this day...


Two elephants feed in the lagoon in front of the guest rooms at Musekese Camp
Today, herds of elephants relaxed in the presence of camp — an almost daily occurrence

 
 
 
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